Introduction

This entry is in response to “Power Dressing: Charting the Influence of Politics on Fashion” written by Maya Singer. Singer addresses the issues and nuances surrounding the use of clothing as political statements. As she breaks down the layers of this topic, she integrates images of political fashion throughout history and the movements it’s involved with. I chose to write in response to this reading because of my strong opinions surrounding the ethics of political clothing, especially in capitalistic standards.

The Layers of Political Clothing Corporations

Whenever the topic of political clothing arises, I immediately become interested. It seems that the ethics behind clothing manufacturing is often undermined and can easily counteract one’s argument. That’s why when reading this article, I was quickly relieved to see the involvement of this lens. Singer perfectly exemplifies this argument when writing about the possibilities of “the pro-feminist T-shirt on a store-window mannequin being made by a woman in a sweatshop.” What you wear doesn’t just appear on store shelves. There is a long, and quite often unethical process that goes into making it. An example that particularly infuriates me is Nike. Nike is often the brand backing progressive movements that very much match up with my ideologies. At the surface, it seems like they’re trying to use the scope of their voice to enact change. But as you look deeper and deeper, the more incorrect that initial thought becomes.

Nike is incredibly unethical when it comes to the production of its clothes. They exploit workers in developing countries who work for absurdly low wages and in horrible conditions. So how can a corporation truly mean what they push for in external situations when they refuse to even adhere to those ideals internally? At the end of the day, Nike, along with hundreds of other clothing brands are capitalistic institutions looking only to maximize profit. If that means leveraging a tragedy to do so, they will most often go through with that. 

Conclusion

So how do we combat these companies? This is also more complex than it seems at the surface. Most people would say to research ethical brands to shop from, but often these brands are quite expensive due to their clothing quality and higher wages, ultimately pushing away economically disadvantaged people. Another option is buying secondhand clothing. Singer pointed out how second-hand clothing is becoming increasingly accessible through websites such as Depop. In the past five years, I have seen a rush in popularity of clothes shopping through thrift stores. I presume that the younger generation will be more open to utilizing these other avenues of clothes shopping. Hopefully, this will be enough to halt brands from using political messages as a marketing strategy.

Introduction

“Clothes for College Men in Fall-Apparel Arts 1933” by Sven Schneider is a piece that dives into older American style. Schneider closely details what college men were expected to be seen during the 1930s. As a man in college, I was interested to see the differences in lifestyles separated by almost 100 years.

Shifting Roles

To say I was confused by older collegiate dressing is an understatement. It gave me a headache going through the infinite situations listed, where a specific article of clothing was expected to be worn. From classes, to bedtime, to football games, there was always an incredibly detailed list of what a collegiate man would be seen in down to the stitching. My interpretation was clear. There has been a drastic shift in the role of the college student, from being influenced to becoming the influencer. College men needed to conform in previous times. Societal standards were stricter, and there was a clear ideology regarding admiration and respect towards adult life. Now look at today and you see the exact opposite. The youth are the innovators. They are who people now look towards to see what is in style, allowing them to be creative. As a current college student, I feel no restriction and I love it. Having the freedom to express yourself, whether that be in a youthful or adult-like manner, is so rewarding. It allows me to be curious and creative, making my closet appear as a box of opportunity rather than one of repetition. But at the same time, I understand the differences. In the older United States, there was a much smaller scope of the workforce. Colleges were used to copying and pasting many people into similar roles. As we have modernized, there is a market for deviation. Being different no longer means you have no job security.

Conclusion

After digesting this piece, I have become more grateful for being born in the era I have. I honestly believe I would go a little crazy having to wear different, planned-out items for so many tedious occasions. It also makes me wonder. How will style change for collegiate adults in the future? I personally believe there won’t be much change but I assume if you’d ask a college student from 1933 they’d predict no difference as well. One last thing I need to touch on: they actually said the word “chap” back then? I thought that was just a cheesy thing they did in movies.

This writing is in response to the episodes, “What is Style?” and “The end” from the podcast American Ivy, created and narrated by Avery Trufelman.

Summary

Trufelman begins the end of her series by introducing the modernization of ivy. There is a shift where American companies begin to produce their clothing in Japan, as it seems they have perfected the ivy style. We see the emergence of Ralph Lauren’s Polo as well as the Tommy Hilfiger line. As ivy continues to grow more branches and stem out, it seems to be able to adapt through all generations.

What I Have Learned

Clothes have monumental amounts of power, but at the same time hold no power at all. What matters is the intent. It just so happens that ivy has been used in almost every facet imaginable, portraying different messages in different eras in different parts of the world. Ivy is accessible, but in some subgenres, it is not. Ivy is so malleable. That is why it has stood the test of time. There is an essence of reliability. You can rely on this style, and you choose to rely on it because of how you have seen it portrayed throughout history. Throughout these 7 episodes, I have learned the power of what is in my closet. I also have learned that what I wear can be interpreted in many different ways. Trufelman has reinvigorated my excitement to wake up in the morning and carefully pick out an outfit based on how I wish to manifest my day.

My Take on Ivy

Works Cited

Trufelman, Avery, narrator. “What is Style?” American Ivy, season 1, episode 6, articlesofinterest.substack.com/p/american-ivy-chapter-4

Trufelman, Avery, narrator. “The End” American Ivy, season 1, episode 7, articlesofinterest.substack.com/p/american-ivy-chapter-5

This writing is in response to the episodes “What is Subculture” and “What is Class” from the podcast American Ivy, created and narrated by Avery Trufelman.

Answering the Episodes

So. What is subculture? What is class? And how do they interact? After listening to these episodes, it is best to paint a picture to explain subculture. Picture a pyramid. If ivy is at the top of this pyramid, then all the styles that have branched off of it would be considered subcultures. You can presume that fashion such as black ivy and preppy are subcultures of ivy. Although they do not match the bare style of it, they’re both heavily influenced. Subcultures are when one main idea is contorted to fit the ideals of another group. The creation of these subcultures is often shaped by class. Class can be defined as a grouping of people based on wealth and status. There seems to constantly be an ever-changing mindset of the elite when it comes to what subcultures they wish to adopt. They can be distinguished from one another through the cases of Presidents Jimmy Carter and Ronald Reagan. Carter entered office with the goal to relate to working-class citizens. To express this, he was often seen wearing clothes that anyone had access to buy. On the other hand, Ronald Reagan wore premium articles of clothing to ensure his status was known. His goal in office was to promote the possibilities of a lavish lifestyle through his capitalistic ideas. Many people saw how he looked and were convinced that with a less strict market, they could achieve the same status as him. He was able to lure citizens by blinding them with material fantasies. 

Differing Similarities

Throughout this whole series, Trufelman is focused mainly on two places: The United States and Japan. Two countries on opposite sides of the world, with very different cultures, adopting the same style of fashion. When Kensuke Ishizu first tried to integrate ivy into Japan, the people saw it as a rebellious statement and dangerous. At the same time, the most brilliant minds in the U.S. at ivy league schools were sporting the same style. To see how differently people can interpret the same thing was eye-opening. Fast forward a few decades and ivy style is finally accepted in Japan as a well-respected type of clothing due to Ishizu showing how it was perceived in the states. A complete 180, proving that it isn’t the material or look that gives clothing significance, it’s what the look represents. What matters is the reasoning as to why someone chose to style themselves in some way. Clothing is a representation of how we feel, our goals, our passions, and our ideologies. Without the power we put behind clothing, there would be no trends.

Works Cited

Trufelman, Avery, narrator. “What is Subculture?” American Ivy, season 1, episode 4, articlesofinterest.substack.com/p/american-ivy-chapter-4

Trufelman, Avery, narrator. “What is Class?” American Ivy, season 1, episode 5, articlesofinterest.substack.com/p/american-ivy-chapter-5

The following is a response to Articles of Interest: Pockets and Articles of Interest: Suits. These episodes were written, produced, and narrated by Avery Trufelman. Both episodes thoroughly go through the histories of each respective piece of clothing and how their perception of fashion has changed. They explore how gender roles played a part in the design of suits and pockets.

Works Cited

Trufelman, Avery, narrator. “Pockets.” Articles of Interest, season 1, episode 3, 99% invisible, 99percentinvisible.org/episode/pockets-articles-of-interest-3/

Trufelman, Avery, narrator. “Suits.” Articles of Interest, season 2, episode suits, 99% invisible, 99percentinvisible.org/episode/suits-articles-of-interest-10/

Images Cited

Metmuseum.org. (n.d.). Retrieved February 10, 2023, from metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157202

The following writing is in response to American Ivy chapters 2 and 3. In both of these episodes, narrator Avery Trufelman explores the history of Ivy and how it became so prominent.. She starts in 1800’s Japan, who under new rule, are attempting to modernize. She follows the life of Kensuke Ishizu, a fashion trailblazer who eventually found Ivy style while touring Princeton University. She proceeds to show how Ivy has been involved and influenced by many major historical timestamps. For example, during the Civil Rights Movement, we see the creation of Black Ivy, a creative spinoff of the original to match the energy of the revolution people were creating. It all seems to have played in with choosing an identity. Trufelman also makes a point to show how Ivy was influenced by ready to wear clothing. It became a representation of the shift of accessibility to fashion from only the elite, to the working class.

Timeline

Conclusion

With all of the historical information at hand, I have concluded that what has made Ivy so invincible throughout the past decades, is its ability to be construed to different identities. Ivy became a style for the common person to identify with one another in a way that had not been possible before.

A Brief Summary

The following is in response to American Ivy: Chapter 1, narrated by Avery Trufelman. In this episode Trufelman examines the history of fashion trends and how they’ve evolved over time. Trufelman begins the episode describing how trends are often forecasted far before they even end up on the shelves. She then delves into how these marketed trends have led to anti-trendiness in modern times. 

Take Ivy

The world, and especially the United States, is incredibly consumer based. From advertisements being everywhere you look, to Christmas, it seems like there are always companies pushing their products from the shadows. Fashion is no different, and a perfect example is provided in this episode through the book Take Ivy. When talking to Jason Diamond, an employee for GQ, he stated how when he recommends people interested in fashion to “this book called Take Ivy” (“American Ivy: Chapter 1” 00:15:34 – 00:15:37). He even makes the point to refer to it as the “bible” of preppy fashion (“Kids’ Clothes” 00:15:56 – 00:15:57).

What captivated me however, was that this book, showing off this groundbreaking new clothing trend, ended up being propaganda. Not many people in actuality dressed this way, but the company who created this book made it seem so, and ended up building a trend that has yet to go away. Learning this made me quite nervous. How much say do I actually have over my choices of style? Was it all subconsciously fed to me?

Questions

Question 1: “That maybe trends are, to a degree, something innate in human culture?” 

(“American Ivy: Chapter 1” 00:28:46 – 00:28:50).

Question 2: “If every company is using them, is WGSN creating the trends? And then do people buy the trends just because they are there?” (“American Ivy: Chapter 1” 00:02:39 – 00:02:46).

Question 3: “But for now, it’s really hard to say what the future holds for that. Like, I would have to spend three months kind of analyzing the macro landscape, to understand what preppy will look like in two years. Where will it resonate?” (“American Ivy: Chapter 1” 00:36:20 – 00:36:32).

Question 4: “It was like… Is everyone doing this? Is it everywhere? but no one is talking about it?” (“American Ivy: Chapter 1” 00:01:33 – 00:01:39).

Claims

Claim 1: “I think a lot of trends are getting reverse engineered right now. Or at least some have to be. There are so many trends now.” (“American Ivy: Chapter 1” 00:07:06 – 00:07:10).

Claim 2: “This influx of trends creates the illusion of feeling there are so many trends that nothing is out of trend. Like there are so many styles happening at once that almost everything is up for grabs and ok.” (“American Ivy: Chapter 1” 00:08:10 – 00:08:19).

Claim 3: “Right. But if Ivy is indeed back- maybe that means it’s no longer the look of rich white people? Maybe the meaning of the look is shifting. Or has shifted.” (“American Ivy: Chapter 1” 00:22:57 – 00:23:04).

Claim 4: “But against all odds, ivy has been reincarnated over and over again. To the point where, I think, it will never quite go away” (“American Ivy: Chapter 1” 00:36:00 – 00:36:12).

Modern Trendiness

As the world has become more technologically accessible, trends have as well. So much so that the influx of trends we see on social media has allowed people to diversify their looks. Gone are the days where people all try to mimic the style of a famous aristocrat. People more than ever want to be the ones to set the trends themselves. Avery Trufelman puts it perfectly when she says, “An outfit is a sentence that says This is what I am doing today, this is what the weather is, this is who I am” (“American Ivy: Chapter 1” 00:24:02 – 00:24:10). It seems that the internet has made the world look to the streets for fashion ideas. I can even attest to this claim. When I go shopping for clothes, I tend to be inspired by what I see people wearing as I pass by them walking. But rather than simply copying what I see, I think about how I can twist it to be my own. Generally, this is the attitude I see with my peers as well. There is enjoyment in subtly standing out through what you wear. With all things considered, I have concluded this: Although companies do have an influence on what can be trendy, people seem to be less coerced by it due to modern tools such as social media. 

Works Cited

Trufelman, Avery, narrator. “Kids’ Clothes.” Articles of Interest, season 1, episode 1, 99% invisible, 99percentinvisible.org/episode/kids-clothes-articles-of-interest-1/

Albert, M. (2019, March 27). The weird and glorious culture shock of “take ivy”. Heddels. Retrieved January 26, 2023, from https://www.heddels.com/2019/03/weird-glorious-culture-shock-take-ivy/ 

This writing is in response to the episode “Kids Clothes” from the podcast Articles of Interest, created and narrated by Avery Trufelman. This episode begins with a preface explaining the significance of clothing and how it has evolved throughout history. It follows by diving into the main focus, kids clothing and how it has evolved throughout American history. Trufelman makes sure to convey the point that clothing has a direct influence on the evolution of humankind and its creations. 

An immediate realization that came to me while listening was how great of an effect that clothing has on other facets of technology. When explaining the history of clothing, Chris Garcia mentions jacquard looms, which had cards that ran through them with holes that essentially told the loom when and where to weave the cloth. This type of system led to new inventions such as quicker censuses and I.B.M. It was eye-opening that tools as advanced as computer programming “in some ways, owes its existence to the loom” (“Kids’ Clothes” 00:07:08 – 00:07:11). This episode made me understand the true scope and influence that clothing has on lifestyles, decisions, and advancements. 

The next half of the episode, I was able to gauge how clothing can express time. Learning the strictness of kids’ clothing in earlier periods was interesting. Notably, the idea that clothing for children in most cases, used to be a statement of wealth. Children who were not wealthy enough would often wear work clothes, as that was what they needed to do in order to provide for their families. Fast forward to current days where children are “dressed up for the occasion of their youth” (“Kids’ Clothes” 00:16:14 – 00:16:17). I was able to quickly connect this to how the United States has evolved socially and economically. 80 years ago, it would not be surprising to see a child working a full-time job to provide for its family. Now with modern legal restrictions and an evolved concept of childhood, that would look incredibly unethical. Thus, children are now dressed to be care-free and playful, which clearly explains the bright colors and unorthodox styles we see on their clothing.

After listening to this podcast, I am interested now to see how specific types of clothing can be associated with one’s personality. I would also like to observe how that has changed over time. For example, were adults who dressed in bright suits and ties perceived differently than they are today? How has the flexibility of what is considered accepted clothing by society changed in the United States?

Works Cited

Trufelman, Avery, narrator. “Kids’ Clothes.” Articles of Interest, season 1, episode 1, 99% invisible, 99percentinvisible.org/episode/kids-clothes-articles-of-interest-1/