Lao Wei Dao (老味道) is a small food stall tucked away in the Jusgo Supermarket in Duluth, Georgia, which is a 40 minute drive north of the Atlanta Metropolitan Area. It’s part of a food court with a couple other stalls like Xi’an Gourmet House, Zhang’s BBQ Chicken, and Kumai Ramen. Chinese pop music blasts at max volume while orders are entered at the cashier, and dishes are served on a bright orange plastic tray with a combination of bamboo steamer baskets, plastic bowls and plates, or ceramic sauce dishes. Customers usually arrive to grab a quick bite after grocery shopping, to share an affordable meal with friends and family, or to eat lunch during the workday.
The owner of Lao Wei Dao, opened the food stall about 3 years ago, after the COVID-19 pandemic. She immigrated to the United States around 20 years ago, when she was about 30 years old.
“就是，为了生活吧 (For a better life),”
She said, describing why she immigrated to the US. But without knowing much English or being able to offer many other skills in the labor market, she turned to cooking and starting restaurants to make a living. Now, almost 20 years later, the owner of Lao Wei Dao has found great success in her food stall, offering a range of dishes most closely aligned to Shanghai “本帮菜” flavors.
Looking at the menu, a variety of dim sum, noodle, and appetizer dishes are displayed. The owner says that one of the restaurant’s most popular dishes is 生煎包(pan-fried pork bao). Similarly, another very popular dish is the 小笼包 (soup dumplings), which comes in a bamboo steamer basket with 6 individual pleated little dumplings. Beyond dumplings, the owner also said that their 牛肉面 (beef noodle soup) is a customer favorite.
When asked if the menu had been tailored specifically for a larger customer base, the owner tilted her head. “We cook what we like, and what we think our customers will like,” she said. “If it sells well, we’ll keep making it. If not, we’ll try something else.” She noted that she mostly tries to cater her food to the tastes of immigrants from mainland China, as she resonates most with the palate of this population.
The owner never actually mentioned trying to make food that was “authentic”; instead, she emphasized the idea of suiting mainland Chinese immigrants’ palates. In a way, this is a type of authenticity, just less rooted in the more rigorous definition people often associate with the word. External factors, such as other customers, the economy, or availability of resources play a minimal role in decision-making for their restaurant, while revenue and popularity play a larger role. “Our food tastes good, and everyone likes food that tastes good,” the owner said, smiling. By serving just regular, classic “good food,” the restaurant can be flexible with what they put on the menu and change menu items easily.
Most of Lao Wei Dao’s customers are Chinese residents from the area surrounding the Jusgo Supermarket. The community around her seemingly has provided a good amount of help with her business. “It wasn’t too hard to open the restaurant, it wasn’t too challenging,” she said. The only thing that she stated had been difficult is the physical labor itself while she works. Since opening the Lao Wei Dao stall, the owner notes that she has been pretty successful the entire time. With the low prices and good food, it’s hard to see why this wouldn’t be the case. After all, just as the owner puts it,
“Food is something that unites people like us, so just serving good food is all you need.”
Interview conducted in Chinese by Kathy Ye, translations and reflections by Ashley Zheng and Kathy Ye