By Yi-Chen Chen and Shih-Huan Chou
Introduction: Gathering Stories Through Taiwanese Flavors
This oral history project explores how Taiwanese and Chinese restaurants in the United States serve as spaces of cultural preservation, adaptation, and storytelling. These restaurants are more than just a place to eat because they are living archives of personal histories, migration journeys, and identity negotiations. Our approach is grounded in close observation and personal engagement. By visiting restaurants, eating with intention, and speaking directly with the people who work there, we aim to document not just the flavors on the table but the deeper meanings behind them. Through this process, we hope to better understand how food can function as a form of memory, resilience, and cross-cultural communication. One of our first visits was to 辣妹子 ( La Mei Zi), a Taiwanese restaurant located in a quiet suburban plaza in Doraville. Though unassuming from the outside, this restaurant quickly revealed itself to be a vibrant, community-centered space with deep ties to both its Taiwanese roots and its local neighborhood.
Resturant Observation
Walking into 辣妹子, we were met with an immediate sense of warmth and familiarity. The space is bathed in pronounced red tones, accented by traditional Chinese lanterns hanging from the ceiling and elegant watercolor-style paintings of magnolia blossoms on the walls. This careful aesthetic choice evokes both elegance and comfort, a subtle blend of cultural pride and accessibility. The restaurant houses seventeen tables. A few of these are large, round tables equipped with rotating lazy Susans, encouraging communal dining and the sharing of multiple dishes, typical of Chinese and Taiwanese eating culture. The remaining are smaller with a mix of circular and rectangular tables, each cleanly set for more intimate gatherings for a more western appeal.
A unique feature stands at the restaurant’s center: a long rectangular table draped in a floral tablecloth, acting as a functional island for both dine-in and takeout service. Neatly arranged on it are utensils, takeout containers, and bags of prepped orders waiting for pickup. During our visits, a steady stream of takeout customers arrived, suggesting that 辣妹子 caters to a loyal customer base even beyond the dining room. Behind the cashier counter, the décor is rich with symbols of prosperity and good fortune: 招財貓 (beckoning cats), a golden-bellied 彌勒佛 (laughing Buddha), and a figurine of 財神爺 (the god of wealth). Above them, framed certificates, likely health inspection or local accolades, decorate the wall.
Despite the restaurant’s high traffic, the environment remains calm. There’s no music playing, and the kitchen sounds are muffled, allowing guests to converse freely over their meals. Across both visits,one during peak dinner hours and another during a quieter mid-afternoon, we witnessed a remarkably diverse clientele. Chinese-speaking students, American families, and curious individual diners all made up the crowd. One moment stood out in particular: a Black woman dining nearby walked over to our table to ask what dish we were eating and which was one of their signature dish 乾辣子雞 (Sichuan-style spicy chicken). That moment captured the welcoming, curiosity-driven atmosphere that 辣妹子 fosters.
The Food Experience at 辣妹子 (La Mei Zi Asian Bistro)
The menu at 辣妹子 balances authenticity with variety, leaning heavily toward Taiwanese comfort dishes and regional Chinese specialties, particularly those from Sichuan. Dishes are made to order, with spice levels adjusted to customer preference, and arrive at the table quickly, hot, and generously portioned.
Over the course of two visits, we sampled a wide range of items:
First Visit Highlights:
- 刈包 (Braised pork with pickled mustard greens in a steamed bun): A Taiwanese staple, this dish delivered a satisfying mix of softness and crunch, sweetness and savoriness.
- 酸辣湯 (Hot & sour soup): Bolder than typical versions, this one struck a strong balance of tang and spice, needing no extra seasoning.
- 乾辣子雞 (Sichuan-style spicy chicken): Bursting with dried chilies and numbing peppercorns, this dish was fragrant, crispy, and unapologetically hot.
- 麻婆豆腐 (Spicy mapo tofu): Authentically numbing with a deep chili oil base, which reminded us of the dish’s Sichuan origins.
- 客家小炒 (Stir-fried pork belly, calamari, bean curd, and Chinese chive flower): Perhaps the most Taiwanese dish we tasted, this stir-fry combined complex textures and the uniquely grassy aroma of chive flower.
Second Visit Highlights:
- 鍋貼 (Pan-fried chicken dumplings): Crispy on the bottom and juicy inside, a perfect snack or light meal.
- 鹽酥雞 (Taiwanese salt & pepper popcorn chicken with basil): Deep-fried with fragrant basil leaves, this iconic night market dish was both crispy and herbal.
- 蔥油餅 (Scallion pancake): Golden and flakey, served hot with dipping sauce.
- 炸銀絲卷沾煉乳 (Fried bread roll with condensed milk): A nostalgic treat, especially popular with Taiwanese diners. It is crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside, sweet from the condensed milk.
- 左宗棠雞 (General Tso’s chicken): The only Americanized Taiwanese dish we tried which was sweet, tangy, and saucy, yet still executed with a level of care and crispness that made it enjoyable.
- 回鍋肉 (Double-cooked sliced pork): A robust and savory stir-fry with hints of garlic and chili, less oily than most versions in the states.
What stood out across both meals was the restaurant’s commitment to flavor integrity. While the menu includes a few familiar dishes aimed at Western diners, the majority of items remain deeply rooted in Taiwanese and Chinese home-style cooking. The spice levels were not as watered down, and ingredients like basil, chive flower, and fermented bean curd hinted at an uncompromising approach to flavor.
Oral History Maggie
Our first impression of Maggie came from an unforgettable scene. As we arrived for our first visit at La Mei Zi, a woman walked in excitedly and called out, “Maggie!” The two of them hugged warmly, like old friends who hadn’t seen each other in years. That moment made me realize that Maggie was more than just a server, she had built deep and genuine relationships with the restaurant’s customers.
Maggie is originally from Guangdong, China. She came to the United States with her husband and later raised two children on her own. With over forty years of experience in the food service industry, she has worked in various types of restaurants, including sushi spots, Vietnamese and Korean eateries, fast food chains like McDonald’s and Burger King, and even a nursing home. She laughed as she told us she’s seen every kind of boss and customer over the years. In recent years, working with a Taiwanese owner has even given her a slight Taiwanese accent.
While we were ordering, we had a chance to talk with Maggie. She told us she’s responsible for managing all the online reviews for La Mei Zi. But she doesn’t just reply to them, she genuinely remembers the content and backstory of nearly every review. She even pulled out her phone and showed us one of them, describing in detail who the customer came with, where they sat, and what they ordered. Her incredible memory impressed us all. She smiled and said it’s a skill she’s developed over four decades in the business.
Maggie never uses a notepad to take orders; she memorizes everything. She also takes the initiative to introduce popular dishes to new customers, such as Mapo Tofu and Dry Chili Chicken. She explained that Indian customers especially love spicy food, while younger generations often order bold, intense dishes like Wu Gen Chang Wang (spicy pork intestine hot pot). She added that American customers are particularly fond of hot and sour soup.
During our first visit, by around 6:30 p.m., nearly every table was occupied. Throughout the meal, customers came in steadily to dine or pick up takeout. Hoping for a quieter moment, we returned around 3 p.m. on another day to talk more with Maggie. We mostly ordered small dishes like fried silver thread buns and popcorn chicken. But before long, the stream of customers returned. Even in off-peak hours, La Mei Zi was bustling. There were three female servers on staff, and the chef occasionally had to come out to help deliver dishes, showing how popular and busy the restaurant is.
Maggie mentioned that competition in the area has increased in recent years, with many new Chinese restaurants opening nearby, including the well-known Lao Sichuan. We asked her what La Mei Zi’s secret was for keeping customers coming back. She laughed and said, “Our signature is spice!” She explained that the dishes used to be spicier forty years ago, but have since been adjusted to suit changing tastes. Still, they’re happy to accommodate requests for extra heat. For example, the Dry Chili Chicken used to be drenched in chili oil, but now it’s served with a more moderate amount.
What surprised us most was Maggie’s personal taste. When we asked her what her favorite dish was at the restaurant, she told us she actually prefers light, mild food. She grew up in a rural village where meals were typically simple and clean in flavor, and despite living in the U.S. for many years, she still finds American Chinese food too heavy for her palate. I asked, “Then why did you choose to stay in the U.S.?” She smiled and said, “I think there are more opportunities here. People like me in the food industry are treated with more respect. I don’t feel looked down on here.”
As we were about to leave, Maggie asked for our names and shook each of our hands warmly. She invited us to come back again soon. Her sincerity and kindness were like a gentle breeze. To me, Maggie is not just a server, she’s the heart of La Mei Zi. This restaurant isn’t just a place to eat, it’s a space filled with warmth, connection, and humanity made possible by people like her.
Restaurants Featured in This Observation
Restaurant Information
Name: La Mei Zi Bistro
Phone: (770) 676-0225
Menu: lameizibistro.com