Brooks Brothers: This clothing brand is frequently brought up in chapters 2 and 3 of American Ivy for its significant role in the popularization of ready-made clothes and contributions to the evolution of Ivy style. Originally a family business founded by Henry Brooks in Manhattan, New York in 1818, it is the oldest operating apparel brand in America and has outfitted nearly every president of the United States. Known for their traditional styles, they did not begin providing clothing for women until the mid-20th century, and their apparel is a staple in classic Ivy clothing. As of 2015, there were 210 Brooks Brothers stores in America, and 70 outside of the U.S.
Summary: Chapters 2 and 3 review the political and social conditions that shaped Ivy and begin to tell the story of how Kensuke Ishizu brought the Ivy style to Japan. Beginning from the Meiji Restoration period where Japan re-opened itself to Western influences, they describe how Western fashions (particularly military uniforms) were integrated into Japanese clothing, and how this shaped trends like the bankara subculture that Ishizu participated in. Meanwhile in America, Brooks Brothers begins to normalize ready-made clothing for the upper classes. This is central to the development of the Ivy style: their high-quality, classic clothing appeals to the elite, and the nature of mass-produced fashion makes trends easier to follow for their consumers, as well as widely distributable (even to the Prince of Wales). Eventually, with the war and the civil rights movement, more working-class elements are absorbed into the style, and women begin to wear Ivy as well. Ishizu comes to Princeton and observes these styles, bringing his observations with him back to Japan.
Timeline
Ivy is a style that originated in the exclusive clubs of the white Anglo-Saxon Protestant elite of Princeton University, but soon spread to all corners of society, and eventually the world — Ivy transcends the very concept of “cool”.
Works Cited
Friedman, Vanessa. “Brooks Bros., ‘Made in America’ Since 1818, May Soon Need a New Calling Card.” The New York Times, 5 June 2020.
Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 2.” Articles of Interest, season 3, episode 2, Nov. 2022, https://open.spotify.com/episode/5SYV4hHjC18hN4HvY6vonV?si=b7f7df0f473840e0
Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 2.” Articles of Interest, Substack, 2 Nov. 2022, articlesofinterest.substack.com/p/american-ivy-chapter-2.
Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 3.” Articles of Interest, season 3, episode 3, Nov. 2022, https://open.spotify.com/episode/68dq43h2YKoDPMFvamY3ui?si=5f32172f27584fe5
Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 3.” Articles of Interest, Substack, 9 Nov. 2022, articlesofinterest.substack.com/p/american-ivy-chapter-3.
Leave a Reply