Summary
In Chapter 6, Trufelman traces the evolution of Ivy and its most iconic brands through the late 20th century on both sides of the Pacific. On the Japanese side of things, Van Jacket went bankrupt, but its implosion spread its seeds all throughout the Japanese fashion industry, and Ivy continued to grow. Meanwhile in America, preppy style became integrated into streetwear through groups like the lo-lifes, and connections to hip-hop music helped launch the popularity of preppy brands.
Chapter 7 delves into the connections between the Japanese and Western branches of Ivy and the significance of Ivy style in the present day. Japan got Ivy down to an art, and when the supply of vintage American clothing inevitably began to run low, they began to make their own, even more beautiful recreations of the style. It was then America’s turn to learn from Japan. The hosts close up by reflecting on the rich and complicated nature of Ivy’s history despite its upper-class, exclusive roots. Now, the Ivy look has become about accessibility and openness – even for Trufelman herself.
Response
Trufelman said in the first episode of American Ivy that, “against all odds, Ivy has been reincarnated over and over again. To the point where, I think, it will never quite go away” (“What is a Trend?” 00:13:34 – 00:13: 54). The rest of the series goes on to prove it. From the clubs of Princeton to the streets of Tokyo to the iconic hip-hop music videos of the 90’s, Ivy has indiscriminately spread its vines far and wide. Its origins lie in the far-away, unattainable world of the mid-century collegiate upper class, but it has only stood the test of time because of the diversity of inspirations that kept the style alive. Fashion history is history, and Ivy history is history: from the politics of the Reagan era and its business-like clothing, to Japan’s post-war image-conscious fashion, to the counterculture trends following the Civil Rights movement, Ivy adapts to the politics and social attitudes of our times. Each new take on Ivy breathed new life into the style, keeping it cool, or sexy, or casual, or whatever suited the people at that time.
Having gone through so many iterations at the hands of so many groups, Ivy has become the style of the people. It doesn’t just look good; it looks good to a lot of people and in a lot of contexts. Trufelman closes the episode, and the series, by reflecting on her own relationship with Ivy: how she’s come to see it as a power to communicate openness and belonging, and how realizing that has let her start to wear Ivy in her own way. If clothing is a language, then Ivy is the common language. Anybody can wear Ivy, and anybody can adapt it to say what they want it to say.
A Material Composition
My outfit consists of a pair of chinos, a short pale yellow button-down, and a pair of Oxfords. As a student, I tend to dress pretty simple and in things I can easily throw on in the morning, and I wanted to reflect that in the outfit. I stayed away from layering, and I kept it to more muted, neutral colors like most of my wardrobe. American Ivy mentioned that chinos were first introduced into Ivy style by returning GIs on college campuses, and I wanted that included in the outfit. As for the shirt, I wanted something that gave a bit of a vintage feel but still relatively modern, so I chose this short button-down from the 90’s (with the shoulder pads removed). The shirt is also more on the feminine side, with its cropped length and rounded edges, which I felt would suit me more than the boxy types the mid-century male Princeton students wore. The shoes are borrowed from a friend, and are actually Italian, which I liked for the slightly more foreign feel. Despite the items being from different times and even different countries, I could combine them into a preppy look that still feels distinctly like me.
Works Cited
Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 6.” Articles of Interest, season 3, episode 6, 99% Invisible, Nov. 2022, https://open.spotify.com/episode/61p1246ysMZ80AlAX74yuh.
Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 6.” Articles of Interest, Substack, 30 Nov. 2022, articlesofinterest.substack.com/p/american-ivy-chapter-6.
Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 7.” Articles of Interest, season 3, episode 7, 99% Invisible, Dec. 2022, https://open.spotify.com/episode/2fZPVH2XEYQ8QnaqMwCPny.
Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 7.” Articles of Interest, Substack, 7 Dec. 2022, articlesofinterest.substack.com/p/american-ivy-chapter-7.
Trufelman, Avery, host. American Ivy. 99% Invisible, 2022, https://open.spotify.com/show/6XKe8xy5P16OLrkBW9oz0k?si=98d1e9e6cbba48b3.
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