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Yolanda Li

  • About
  • Response Notebook
  • Immigration in the US: A PESTEL Analysis
    • Introduction
    • Social
    • Political
    • Economic
    • Technological
    • Legal
    • Conclusion
    • Works Cited

Response Notebook

What to Use and When: Terminology in Discussions on Race

April 14, 2023 by yli3574 Leave a Comment

Introduction

“Which is the correct term? Black vs. BIPOC vs. African American vs. POC vs. BAME” by Gabby Beckford is a brief guide to the most common terms used to refer to non-white groups. Beckford, a mixed Black woman and a content creator, directs this towards people who want to learn how to use this type of language in the wake of the anti-racism movement in the summer of 2020. My interest in this reading was kindled by my own experiences with these terms as an Asian American and how I have seen other people use them.

Summary

Beckford provides this guide for newcomers to the social justice scene because she believes in the importance of accurate and nuanced language. She moves through the most common terms for non-white groups from more familiar terms to more foreign terms, providing a brief explanation of the usage and background of each. These terms include: Black, POC (People of Color), BIPOC (Black/Indigenous/People of Color), African-American, ADOS (African Descendents of Slavery), Black-American, and BAME (Black/Asian/Minority Ethnic). She explains the differences between the various Black terms, and why she believes BIPOC and BAME are preferable over POC and Minority Ethnic, respectively, because highlighting specific groups adds necessary nuance. She concludes by emphasizing the importance of acknowledging differences accurately and appropriately in a society where we aren’t all seen as equal.

Response

TrustRadius. 13 April 2023.

The author’s thoughts on the nuance of terms like BIPOC and BAME were intriguing to me, but I don’t entirely agree that they are inherently more nuanced and useful terms. As Beckford herself mentions in the article, “people should be as specific as possible when addressing societal issues and topics connected to a certain race.” Meanwhile, terms like POC and ME (Minority Ethnic) are meant to be umbrella terms. POC and ME are rarely ever applicable in the first place, as they are highly general terms only defined in contrast to whiteness: very simply, those who are racially oppressed and those who are not. Few issues related to race can be generalized to such a binary, and experiences within non-white groups vary wildly by background. Replacing umbrella terms with terms like BIPOC and BAME that try to place emphasis on specific groups seems contradictory to her statement; if BIPOC and BAME are meant to highlight Black & Indigenous and Black & Asian groups respectively, then why not just say Black & Indigenous and Black & Asian? These groups face the most prominent struggles in America and Britain and are most impacted by white supremacy and settler colonialism, and so should be emphasized in discussions about racial justice, but not simply by adding their letters to acronyms so general that their usage should be minimized anyways. Rather than try to fit more nuance into terms that are general by nature, we should achieve that nuance by expanding our discussions of race beyond “white” and “not-white” whenever possible.

Concluding Remarks

This article left me with a few questions: How can we differentiate between the experiences of long-established minority communities and more recent immigrants? And although this article primarily focused on various Black groups’ terms, what are some of the important distinctions within other racial groups, and why are those distinctions important to make? How do their experiences differ?

Works Cited

Beckford, Gabby. “Which Is Right? Black vs. BIPOC vs. African American vs. POC vs. BAME.” Packs Light, June 2020, https://www.packslight.com/which-is-right-term-african-american-vs-black-vs-bipoc-vs-poc-vs-bame/.

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Fashion and Politics

April 13, 2023 by yli3574 Leave a Comment

Introduction

Maya Singer’s Vogue article “Power Dressing: Charting the Influence of Politics on Fashion” argues that fashion is, and has always been, political. Singer, an Amherst graduate and fashion writer for Vogue, gives a rundown of the major topics at the intersection of politics and fashion throughout modern history. I became interested in this reading because I have observed many of the same issues firsthand, particularly those regarding sustainability and overconsumption.

Summary

Singer’s core claim is that fashion, by its nature, is inseparable from politics. She expands on this by incorporating the views of major figures in the fashion industry on the topic and by giving an overview of its most prominent examples in recent times. There’s the obvious (political slogans; BLM shirts; “We Should All Be Feminists” tees), the more subtle (Serre’s moon’s universality as a symbol; the Black Panthers’ leather jackets and berets signifying counter-police resistance), and the behind-the-scenes production of the clothing itself (labor rights; environmental impact; the diversity of its influences). In recent years, people have become increasingly aware of these connections between fashion and politics, with movements calling for more accountability from brands, celebrities, and influencers alike.

Response

Muscati, Samer. Human Rights Watch, 12 April 2023.

In my own life, I’ve come across many of the same controversies on sustainability and accountability. For one, the perceived conflict between accessibility and sustainability: as Singer notes, the “right to consume” and garment workers’ rights have been set in opposition to each other, “as though insisting on the latter is tantamount to saying low-income Americans don’t deserve stylish clothes”. I’ve seen this opinion expressed with regards to Shein, a notorious fast-fashion brand with highly controversial labor practices but highly affordable prices. Because they can’t afford more expensive, higher-quality “cute” clothes, some misinterpret the statement “fast fashion is bad” as “you are a bad person if you buy fast fashion.” I completely agree with Singer on this: it’s not that poor people should not buy cheap, low-quality clothing, but that they shouldn’t have to in the first place. Buying cheap clothing because you need clothing is not the fault of the consumer; the problem only arises when people are buying more than they need. 

I’ve also encountered “performative” support of sustainability and accountability. The normalization of this type of language is in part good, as Singer mentioned, but has often led to its meaning being twisted or watered down. For instance, “de-influencing” posts that boil down to “buy this, not that” have become popular in recent months. This defeats the point of “de-influencing” in the first place, which is to cut down on unnecessary consumption. People wrap consumerism in the language of sustainability without ever changing their approach to fashion at its core. Brands are guilty of this as well–perhaps more so as the ones in control of clothing production–and push their “sustainable!”-labeled lines to the forefront while continuing to take advantage of cheap labor for the rest of their products. Environmental friendliness can’t just be another fashion trend; it has to be the end goal of reform for the entire garment production industry going forward.

Concluding Remarks

This reading reminded me of a few of Trufelman’s remarks early on in the Articles of Interest series regarding clothing as a form of communication. The fashion trends mentioned throughout the podcast series often had clear ties to politics, such as the militaristic uniforms of post-Meiji Restoration Japan that reflected their society’s shift to more Western philosophies.

A few questions I’m left with are: How can we go about reforming the garment supply chain? And how can we prevent sustainability activism from fading out like another fashion trend?

Works Cited

Singer, Maya. “Power Dressing: Charting the Influence of Politics on Fashion.” Vogue, 17 Sept. 2020, https://www.vogue.com/article/charting-the-influence-of-politics-on-fashion. 

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Response 6 – American Ivy, Chapters 6 & 7

February 27, 2023 by yli3574 Leave a Comment

Summary

In Chapter 6, Trufelman traces the evolution of Ivy and its most iconic brands through the late 20th century on both sides of the Pacific. On the Japanese side of things, Van Jacket went bankrupt, but its implosion spread its seeds all throughout the Japanese fashion industry, and Ivy continued to grow. Meanwhile in America, preppy style became integrated into streetwear through groups like the lo-lifes, and connections to hip-hop music helped launch the popularity of preppy brands. 

Chapter 7 delves into the connections between the Japanese and Western branches of Ivy and the significance of Ivy style in the present day. Japan got Ivy down to an art, and when the supply of vintage American clothing inevitably began to run low, they began to make their own, even more beautiful recreations of the style. It was then America’s turn to learn from Japan. The hosts close up by reflecting on the rich and complicated nature of Ivy’s history despite its upper-class, exclusive roots. Now, the Ivy look has become about accessibility and openness – even for Trufelman herself.

Response

Trufelman said in the first episode of American Ivy that, “against all odds, Ivy has been reincarnated over and over again. To the point where, I think, it will never quite go away” (“What is a Trend?” 00:13:34 – 00:13: 54). The rest of the series goes on to prove it. From the clubs of Princeton to the streets of Tokyo to the iconic hip-hop music videos of the 90’s, Ivy has indiscriminately spread its vines far and wide. Its origins lie in the far-away, unattainable world of the mid-century collegiate upper class, but it has only stood the test of time because of the diversity of inspirations that kept the style alive. Fashion history is history, and Ivy history is history: from the politics of the Reagan era and its business-like clothing, to Japan’s post-war image-conscious fashion, to the counterculture trends following the Civil Rights movement, Ivy adapts to the politics and social attitudes of our times. Each new take on Ivy breathed new life into the style, keeping it cool, or sexy, or casual, or whatever suited the people at that time.

Having gone through so many iterations at the hands of so many groups, Ivy has become the style of the people. It doesn’t just look good; it looks good to a lot of people and in a lot of contexts. Trufelman closes the episode, and the series, by reflecting on her own relationship with Ivy: how she’s come to see it as a power to communicate openness and belonging, and how realizing that has let her start to wear Ivy in her own way. If clothing is a language, then Ivy is the common language. Anybody can wear Ivy, and anybody can adapt it to say what they want it to say.

A Material Composition

My outfit consists of a pair of chinos, a short pale yellow button-down, and a pair of Oxfords. As a student, I tend to dress pretty simple and in things I can easily throw on in the morning, and I wanted to reflect that in the outfit. I stayed away from layering, and I kept it to more muted, neutral colors like most of my wardrobe. American Ivy mentioned that chinos were first introduced into Ivy style by returning GIs on college campuses, and I wanted that included in the outfit. As for the shirt, I wanted something that gave a bit of a vintage feel but still relatively modern, so I chose this short button-down from the 90’s (with the shoulder pads removed). The shirt is also more on the feminine side, with its cropped length and rounded edges, which I felt would suit me more than the boxy types the mid-century male Princeton students wore. The shoes are borrowed from a friend, and are actually Italian, which I liked for the slightly more foreign feel. Despite the items being from different times and even different countries, I could combine them into a preppy look that still feels distinctly like me.

Works Cited

Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 6.” Articles of Interest, season 3, episode 6, 99% Invisible, Nov. 2022, https://open.spotify.com/episode/61p1246ysMZ80AlAX74yuh.

Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 6.” Articles of Interest, Substack, 30 Nov. 2022, articlesofinterest.substack.com/p/american-ivy-chapter-6.

Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 7.” Articles of Interest, season 3, episode 7, 99% Invisible, Dec. 2022, https://open.spotify.com/episode/2fZPVH2XEYQ8QnaqMwCPny.

Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 7.” Articles of Interest, Substack, 7 Dec. 2022, articlesofinterest.substack.com/p/american-ivy-chapter-7.

Trufelman, Avery, host. American Ivy. 99% Invisible, 2022, https://open.spotify.com/show/6XKe8xy5P16OLrkBW9oz0k?si=98d1e9e6cbba48b3.

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Response 5 – American Ivy, Chapters 4 & 5

February 19, 2023 by yli3574 Leave a Comment

Subcultures are social groups organized around shared interests and practices that deviate from the mainstream (Herzog et al.). Class is the grouping of people based on shared socioeconomic factors like wealth, income, education, and occupation, such as the upper, middle, working, and lower classes (University of Minnesota). 

Episode 4, “What is Subculture?”, discusses the changes in the fashion world through the 1960’s and 70’s. The hosts detail Kensuke Ishizu’s struggle with getting Ivy style to be accepted by Japanese society. To prove the naysayers wrong, Ishizu went to film Ivy style in person, only to discover that American trends had already changed. People were tired of conformity. Counterculture trends had exploded, and the goal had shifted from looking mature to looking young and unique. Meanwhile, Ralph Lauren began to grow his brand around a new, sexier form of Ivy, foreshadowing the upcoming preppy resurgence.

Episode 5, “What is Class?”, details this resurgence. Going back to the Japanese side of things, when Ishizu brought back his film and his handbook on Ivy League style, it rehabilitated Ivy’s image in Japanese society. Ivy experienced a burst of popularity, and contemporary fashion became more accepted in Japan. America, too, saw a preppy renaissance. With the cultural focus shifting towards business and entrepreneurship, people started to dress the part. Preppy was no longer just a look, but an (aspirational) lifestyle: the money, the status, the class. 

Getty Images, 19 Feb. 2023.

Trufelman crosses through time periods and across oceans in these episodes, illustrating how both wider cultural factors and a few key contributors shaped the differing development of Ivy on both sides of the Pacific. The original Ivy style served as a basis from which to grow, but the continued relevance and popularity of Ivy was owed to its adaptability to this diverse array of influences. A few of the key figures Trufelman brings up are Kensuke Ishizu, Ralph Lauren, and Ronald Reagan. Ishizu was the man who near-single-handedly brought Ivy style to Japan. Though far removed from the Ivy League origins himself, he learned Ivy style through careful observation and study, and this precision carried over to Ivy followers in Japan. Though uniforms were falling out of fashion, Japan remained a culture that valued respectable, standardized, careful dress, and their version of Ivy was meticulously curated according to the rules set by Ishizu. Meanwhile in America, the culture shifted to rebel against conformity, and the rise of subcultures and the “peacock revolution” saw the temporary disappearance of Ivy in its more recognizable forms, although its influence still showed in the subcultures’ fashion. Ralph Lauren was a key agent in bringing it back. Despite his non-Ivy background, Ralph Lauren’s polo shirts and sexier silhouettes and movie-like advertised lifestyle breathed new life into the style. Ronald Reagen’s presidency and the values he embodied further cemented the desirability of this preppy lifestyle. As Trufelman remarks, “preppy clothes are truly in service of a lifestyle. A certain philosophy of living” (“What is Class?” 00:19:07-00:19:20). Preppy was really selling class; the idea that to be wealthy was to be good, and to be higher class was to be of value, was reflected in fashion. 

Ivy in Japan evolved to fit the neat, thoughtful methods of dress of Japan, and held on through counterculture fashion to break through in the Ralph Lauren-esque fantasies of 1980’s America. In each case, the wide selections of influences molded Ivy into new and ever-popular forms, showcasing the core of Trufelman’s argument: that Ivy’s true strength is in its adaptability.

Herzog, Amy, et al. “Interrogating Subcultures.” Invisible Culture, University of Rochester, 1999, https://www.rochester.edu/in_visible_culture/issue2/introduction.htm.

“Social Class in the United States.” Introduction to Sociology Understanding and Changing the Social World, University of Minnesota Libraries Publishing, 8 Apr. 2016, https://pressbooks.howardcc.edu/soci101/chapter/8-3-social-class-in-the-united-states/.

Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 4.” Articles of Interest, season 3, episode 4, Nov. 2022, https://open.spotify.com/episode/6knJhFIQwGnw9QPa38q8aE?go=1&sp_cid=0c2c44e83a1b2076bc7e0932c9b55cb5&utm_source=embed_player_p&utm_medium=desktop.

Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 4.” Articles of Interest, Substack, 16 Nov. 2022, articlesofinterest.substack.com/p/american-ivy-chapter-4.

Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 5.” Articles of Interest, season 3, episode 5, Nov. 2022, https://open.spotify.com/episode/0C9tpby6rRLjshsIy9izWC?go=1&sp_cid=0c2c44e83a1b2076bc7e0932c9b55cb5&utm_source=embed_player_p&utm_medium=desktop.Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 5.” Articles of Interest, Substack, 23 Nov. 2022, articlesofinterest.substack.com/p/american-ivy-chapter-5.

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Response 4 – Articles of Interest, Episodes 3 & 10

February 11, 2023 by yli3574 Leave a Comment

Episodes 3 and 10 of Articles of Interest cover the history of pockets and suits, respectively. Episode 3, “Pockets”, begins with an anecdote about modern women’s pockets, which are frequently either fake or so shallow as to be useless. The hosts then dive into its history, starting from the 18th century. Back then, pockets were like pouches that were suspended from the waist and could be accessed from slits in a dress, while men’s pockets had started to be incorporated into their clothes back in the late 17th century. This started to change after the French revolution. Big, pocket-hiding skirts were out, and columnar muslin dresses were in, so women began to carry purses instead. Male fashion gained a monopoly on pockets, and they faded from women’s clothing. Meanwhile, Episode 10, “Suits”, discusses the evolution of the suit. Modern formal menswear is quite limited to the suit, which all look pretty much the same from a distance; self-expression is kept in the minute details. The suit, they explain, finds its origin in Beau Brummel, an early 19th century London celebrity. Famous for being rich, charming, and good-looking, he kickstarted the culture of sprezzatura, or studied carelessness, in his cult following of dandies. Though men of the elites traditionally wore powder and wigs and lace and high heels, he wore a simple white shirt, dark jacket, and tan pants every day: the predecessor of the suit. The culture shifted away from clothing that could be perceived as “frivolous” – and thus criticized by the populace – and towards restrained, toned-down garments that “quietly oozed wealth”. This Great Male Renunciation was cemented by the imprisonment of flamboyant dresser and suspected homosexual Oscar Wilde, and has been so ever since.

Both the change in gendered pockets and the change in formal menswear were results of greater cultural shifts away from excess. For pockets, with the French Revolution, styles changed to reflect the zeitgeist and the popular pushback against “excess”. Voluminous skirts were pushed out for a slimmer silhouette that had little room for bulk, thus pushing waist-tied pockets with it. Little purses, or reticules, became more popular for the “liberated” woman. Meanwhile, the introduction of suits and the Great Male Renunciation began with the elites, specifically Beau Brummel, and not the common people. Beau and his dandies were emulating American and French revolutionaries with a dressed-down, “man of the people” look, while still upholding traditional hierarchies of power. The people had begun criticizing the frivolous dress of the elites, and embracing the “restrained” look Beau sported mitigated this backlash.

It’s interesting to note how the evolution of pockets and suits are intertwined – as women’s pockets faded away, men’s pockets continued to multiply, until the average suit had 24 pockets. Also of note, both women post-pockets and men post-suits would find different ways to repackage luxury, though in opposite directions. The hidden luxury of embroidered pockets under the skirt became the outward luxury of beaded purses, while the outward luxury of extravagant designs and intricate lace in menswear became the hidden luxury of tiny details in buttons and pleats. 

“Pocket.” The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 10 February 2023.

For instance, let’s look at this pair of a lady’s pockets from 1796, just before the French Revolution. Though serving the functional purpose of storage, pockets were at the same time an “opportunity for splendor”. This particular pair is made of sturdy material for the capacity to carry heavier objects, but is also covered in silk and finely embroidered with delicate, trailing vines of pink flowers along the border. As the hosts remark, they were like lingerie in a way. Pockets, intimately stored close to the body under a voluminous skirt and beautifully decorated, could only be seen by the woman herself, whoever dressed her, or a lover – a type of quiet luxury.

“Suit.” The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 10 February 2023.https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/159405

Similarly, men’s suits are the type of luxurious that only makes itself evident if you’re close enough to observe, and knowledgeable enough to understand. From a distance, it appears to be nothing special. But a keen observer with a trained eye would note the distinctive curved pants pockets and double topstitching on the side seams, lapels, cuffs, and pockets. Though all suits abide by the same general, uniform rules, these small differences hold a world of self-expression to those that know the language.

Works Cited

Trufelman, Avery, host. “Pockets.” Articles of Interest, episode 3, 99% Invisible, 2 Oct. 2018, https://99percentinvisible.org/episode/pockets-articles-of-interest-3/.

Trufelman, Avery, host. “Suits.” Articles of Interest, episode 10, 99% Invisible, 26 May 2020, https://99percentinvisible.org/episode/suits-articles-of-interest-10/.

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Response 3 – American Ivy, Chapters 2 & 3

February 4, 2023 by yli3574 Leave a Comment

Brooks Brothers: This clothing brand is frequently brought up in chapters 2 and 3 of American Ivy for its significant role in the popularization of ready-made clothes and contributions to the evolution of Ivy style. Originally a family business founded by Henry Brooks in Manhattan, New York in 1818, it is the oldest operating apparel brand in America and has outfitted nearly every president of the United States. Known for their traditional styles, they did not begin providing clothing for women until the mid-20th century, and their apparel is a staple in classic Ivy clothing. As of 2015, there were 210 Brooks Brothers stores in America, and 70 outside of the U.S.

Summary: Chapters 2 and 3 review the political and social conditions that shaped Ivy and begin to tell the story of how Kensuke Ishizu brought the Ivy style to Japan. Beginning from the Meiji Restoration period where Japan re-opened itself to Western influences, they describe how Western fashions (particularly military uniforms) were integrated into Japanese clothing, and how this shaped trends like the bankara subculture that Ishizu participated in. Meanwhile in America, Brooks Brothers begins to normalize ready-made clothing for the upper classes. This is central to the development of the Ivy style: their high-quality, classic clothing appeals to the elite, and the nature of mass-produced fashion makes trends easier to follow for their consumers, as well as widely distributable (even to the Prince of Wales). Eventually, with the war and the civil rights movement, more working-class elements are absorbed into the style, and women begin to wear Ivy as well. Ishizu comes to Princeton and observes these styles, bringing his observations with him back to Japan.

Timeline

Ivy is a style that originated in the exclusive clubs of the white Anglo-Saxon Protestant elite of Princeton University, but soon spread to all corners of society, and eventually the world — Ivy transcends the very concept of “cool”.

Works Cited

Friedman, Vanessa. “Brooks Bros., ‘Made in America’ Since 1818, May Soon Need a New Calling Card.” The New York Times, 5 June 2020.

Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 2.” Articles of Interest, season 3, episode 2, Nov. 2022, https://open.spotify.com/episode/5SYV4hHjC18hN4HvY6vonV?si=b7f7df0f473840e0

Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 2.” Articles of Interest, Substack, 2 Nov. 2022, articlesofinterest.substack.com/p/american-ivy-chapter-2.

Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 3.” Articles of Interest, season 3, episode 3, Nov. 2022, https://open.spotify.com/episode/68dq43h2YKoDPMFvamY3ui?si=5f32172f27584fe5

Trufelman, Avery. “American Ivy: Chapter 3.” Articles of Interest, Substack, 9 Nov. 2022, articlesofinterest.substack.com/p/american-ivy-chapter-3.

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